Speed Bag Parts

* Boards
* Swivels
* Speed Bags
* Hand Protection

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Boards, often called the ?drum?, come in several sizes, determined by the circumference. Standard sizes are 24 inches up to 36 inches. Small 24 inch boards are normally found in economy home units. Larger ones are found in gyms or high use health clubs.
The best boards have some type of height adjust method, so you can raise or lower it to properly position the bag for the user. Always make sure your board is fully tightened down to reduce vibration. Make sure all items are off the top of the board before hitting the bag that is attached.

 Light small boards of 24 inches diameter, usually made of presswood, may need some reinforcement with another piece of wood attached on top for added weight or support. This will add stability and reduce vibration. (see photo). The light brown 3/4 inch plywood was added over the black presswood board. You may have to purchase longer bolts than those supplied to go through the extra wood.

 For locations of high speed bag use or if you will be changing swivels to try out new products, it is recommended to drill your swivel holes all the way through the board and use bolts to attach it rather than the screws supplied.  (see swivel tips). It is best to drill the holes all the way through the board BEFORE you hang it up. * recent new board designs have the top metal support brackets in a "V" design, attaching over the middle of the board, which makes drilling the swivel holes through more difficult and challenging. Just be aware that the screw holes may be a source of some stretching and loosening over time, causing a bit of shimmy in the attached base.
 Note that with a 24 inch diameter board,  an 11x8 bag will come just to the edge of the board. (see photo and green line). Longer speed bags will go past the boards edge.  If possible, It is recommended to use a larger board for the larger and longer speed bags.


The swivel is the middle part of the setup and is the main part that provides bag movement. The swivel base attaches to the board and a movement portion attaches to the bag. Currently there are three main types of swivels, and several varieties of each.
Ball Hook
The oldest and simplest design. No swivel parts or connections to influence the bag rebound. The best of these have two parts. A base connection which attaches to the board, and an action part which connects to the bag. Avoid single piece ball-hooks, since the metal housing can wear over time and the ball will fall out. The ball-hook is the noisiest swivel but provides a clean fast reaction. 
 * 2006: The Everlast Ball Hook all metal swivel shown above right is no longer available and was replaced by a plastic ballhook design. 
* 2011: The plastic ball hook is also out of production and hard to find. 
Both are occasionally available on ebay, amazon or other other online auction or equipment sale sites.
* 2011: The "Powermill Evil Swivel", (right) was designed and individually custom made by a man named "JUMPCANNON", who is an active
member speedbagforum.com.   This swivel had a solid one piece metal ball housing with a custom made ball.  Unfortunately due to time and travel constrainsts of his "real job" they are no longer available.

* 2012: "The DEVILLE Swivel " (shown at right) is a custom made ballhook  design currently being used by both beginner and advanced speed baggers around the country. Initial reviews were very favorable. Design improvements are currently underway, such as: Wider opening on S-hook for thicker bag attachment loops, Removable S-hook if desired to us a carabiner or attach bag directly to eye-bolt (shortens rebound arc).  
Find out more about it here: SpeedBagForum.com
* Speedbagcentral webdesigners or staff are NOT 
connected to, or receive any financial support
from, either Jumpcannon or Deville swivel suppliers.
These are "information only" posts and links to 
keep the speed bag community informed. Photo's
are used with permission.

Speedbagcentral DOES recommend the action and
accuracy of the ballhook swivel design, and these 
two are the finest available today. 





 Has one or more links of chain in the design. Quieter than the ballhook, but more difficult to attach the bag.
Speed bar or "U-Bolt designs
 These may be one or two piece construction, with ball bearings for movement and a bar to attach the bag. Quiet and fast but the bag can ?slide? along the bar or "float" on it -  and interfere with the rebound angle or bag speed. Usually very easy to change bags on these.

Swivel Tips:
  For high use areas, It is recommended to drill your swivel holes all the way through the board and use bolts to attach the swivel base to the board. This will eliminate the base of the swivel from coming loose.This is easier for boards like this with the center area open. Newer designs have the attachment supports in the center.

  For a two piece screw type ( older ball-hook and chain link) use vice-grips to tighten the bottom part of the swivel. This will give enough pressure to keep the bottom tight. Hand tight only will constantly come loose.
 For chain link swivels, keep a set of Retaining Ring or Snap Ring Pliers handy to open the link and change bags. These come in several styles. When the link is open, it will look like this.
For the newer bar type swivels, put some tape around the bag loop to draw it tight and keep it in contact with the bar at all times. Otherwise it may ?float? up, losing contact, when you make contact in an upward direction. This will slow the bag down enough to screw up your routine.
 For ballhook swivels, put some tape around the open end of the hook to close the opening and keep the bag from flying off if you mis-hit in an upward direction. ( a thin 1/2 inch piece of grey duct tape works fine. it will not interfere with the swivels action.).
Or you can use a small piece of plastic as shown above on the
Deville Ballhook. 
 When you are having problems hitting the bag, and seem to have lost control ? check the swivel. Something may be loose. Even if it isn?t, it is often best to blame it on the swivel.  They don't take it personally.
Peak inside Swivels!      VISIT OUR DEDICATED SWIVEL PAGE!
Speed Bags
Speed bags come in an assortment of shapes, sizes, colors and materials. Although sizes are fairly standard, the exact shape of each "size" depends on the company making the bag. There is little uniformity between brands, so a size 9x6 speed bag from one company may not look like or respond like a 9x6 from another company. Although the "number size" may be the same, one may be short and teardrop shaped, the other elongated like a banana (called Mexican style) and narrower around. An 11x8 medium bag size may actually be listed as an 11x7 by another company. That is why most people find a size, shape and brand they prefer and stay with it.
Speed Bag size is also one of the greatest reasons that people fail to learn or fail to advance. Usually they are struggling with a small bag that requires some control of punching power and fist speed. It may make a world of difference to simply use a larger bag! The main point of each size is listed below.
Large Bags,
  Sizes: 13x10, 12x10, 11x8
  These are made by only a few companies. They are slower and easier to control. They build strength and power. These bags create heavier pounding rebounds and require a stronger reinforced board, preferably 36 inches. These larger bags may also extend past a 24 inch board.

Medium size bags
  Sizes: 10x7, 9x6,
  Medium bags are the middle ground of speed and ability. They take some experience to control.
Small Bags
  Sizes: 8x5, 7x4, 6.5x4, ,
  Very fast and demand excellent control of punching power and swinging speed. Not best for beginners. Note the two 8x5 bags at right and the different shapes for the same size.
Bag tips.

 To determine proper inflation level, pump until all the wrinkles are out of the outer leather and the bag is smooth. Then put in one or two more. You should be able to gently squeeze the inflated bag and push the leather in slightly.
 Repairing or changing the air bladder inside the bag is a pain at best. If possible, purchase several bags at the same time so if one fails you have another ready to use.
 Keep the outer leather covering dry and use a conditioning cream if the leather cracks.
 For the Beginner, the smallest of the large bags, 11x8, is an excellent size for starting out. It is more forgiving and easier to control. It is slow enough to keep up with if you hit too hard, as beginners tend to do. It will also allow for a faster power workout when your skill level allows it.
 For beginners, if you are forced to use a medium or small bag, and you are struggling with control, it may be easier to let a little air out of the bag, but do not let the leather crease. This will make it slightly softer and easier to control. Also, SLOW DOWN.  You don't have to punch hard.
 For Advanced users wanting to go a little faster? Put a little more air in the bag. Just a few pumps can really accelerate the rebounds. But be warned: You risk damaging the bladder or risking a blow out. Also, over-inflation will make it feel like a brick when your hand hits.
A general group of Bags is shown below for comparison.

Discuss all aspects of Speed Bag Equipment and setups:  SpeedBagForums.com
To view historical speed bag equipment and setups, click here.

Hand protection
Your fists may contact the bag hundreds of times during a speed bag work out, so hand protection is very important. There are several types of protection Wraps & Gloves.
Hand Wraps
Strips of cloth that wrap around several times around the hand. These provide needed support to the small bones. Many types are available and most have a thumb attachment and adhesive strip. You do not have to wraps as severely for speed bag as you do for the heavy bag. A sample is shown.
Hand Protection Tips:
? Hand wraps are more difficult to use and keep on but offer the most protection and support when used properly. There are various methods to wrap the hands. There are several ways to wrap the hands and here is a recommended method.(a .pdf file should open).

There are several varieties of work out gloves today, from the older mitten type to the half-fingered cross training gloves. Gloves protect the skin of the knuckles but do not support the small bones in the hand as well as wraps.

? Mitten style gloves  have extra material on the sides of the fist with may interfere when hitting the bag with the sides of the fist. They also tend to slip on the bag if made of a shiny or smooth material. Gloves like these are not recommended for speed bag work.
? With half-fingered fitness gloves, watch out for seams directly over the contact surface of the fist, particularly over the large knuckles of the index and little finger. A preferred pair of gloves has no seams over the direct contact areas and a soft leather that takes the bag well.